Research - Patterns

I shall be using this research to draft flat patterns for sleeves and collars and to compare to the cut on the stand patterns i shall be creating for the bodices and skirts. This is a range of patterns that I have researched from throughout the 19th Century, I shall choose three of these that are technically different and challenging to use to produce my toiles. I shall not be following them exactly and will use them more as a guide to creating my own patterns. I decided to pick a range of those i thought were particularly interesting and would be difficult to create in terms of the sleeve shape, layering or bodice shape ect.

1820

This would be a challenging piece to create in terms of its decoration. The lattice would require flat patterning as well as working on the stand to make sure the right shape is achieved. Creating the fullness of the back of the skirt would be important, also creating the right silhouette by getting the waistline in the correct place.

1825

Similar to the pattern above in terms of its waistline this pattern  is slightly more simple. I like its mutton sleeves and it would be interesting to produce its shape using the under sleeve however I feel it may not be challenging enough to learn a lot from producing this piece.

1834

This piece would be quite challenging in its voluminous shape with the large collar. I think the large shapes would create an interesting silhouette and would be quite engaging to work with the large volumes of fabric. I really like the changing widths of the sleeves.

1837-41

This pattern has quite a classic shape for around the middle of the century. This again has very interesting sleeves however the shape of the bodice and skirt may be a bit too simple to develop and learn much from drafting a toile.

1852-6

This dress has many elements that would be interesting and challenging to produce. The multiple layers of lining and muslin would be a challenge to make work together in the time frame. The cartridge pleats and tiered flounces I am also keen to learn.

1874-7

The silhouette of this pattern would be interesting to produce, I would like to experiment with the different fabric manipulation techniques and also challenge myself to produce the very shaped bodice with its different pleats and snug fit.

1878

The princess line dress I find is quite iconic of the century and poses challenges of its own, having such large pattern pieces that make up bodice and skirt. I think I would learn a lot about structure from this pattern and the way the seam lines have to work to look elegant.

1883

This pattern I find quite fussy in its design elements but would  be an interesting piece to produce. It would be engaging to see how the fitted bodice works with the draped and heavily gathered skirt and whether I could make it look balanced.

1893

The shape of this pattern is particularly elegant, its silhouette is simple but looking at the pattern pieces it becomes apparent it is more involved. The sleeves and skirt in particular would be a challenge to create the volume while retaining a light air that the dress would need.

1895

I like the powerful silhouette created by the sleeves of this pattern. The bodice I think would be interesting and quite challenging to produce and the skirt with all its seeming pleats would also be new.