Wednesday, 11 May 2011

1973 Toile Planning and Evaluation

Proposed Time Plan 09. 05 - 18.05
The hand in time for this final week of the project has been extended by the course from Monday morning to Wednesday afternoon. This gives me extra time to complete the unit and my final toile so I feel hopeful that I will be able to complete the piece to a finishing standard I am happy with.

  • Draft basic shape of toile, front, side and back panels
  • Refine toile shape
  • Add collar shape and front panel shape
  • Start drafting underskirt panels cut in calico
  • Experiment with pleating skirt at waistband 
  • experiment with creating volume with tape
  • Draft sleeve
  • Draft underskirt in pre-shrunk washed calico to see drape in softer fabric
  • Mark up calico toile on stand and remove
  • Start putting pattern pieces on paper
  • Complete putting pattern pieces on paper
  • Cut pattern from pre-shrunk washed calico
  • Put decorative marking on pattern pieces, stitched in coloured thread?
  • start sewing pieces together
  • Over-lock edges
  • Start hemming edges
  • Complete hemming edges
  • Start decorative elements

  1. belt with bow piping
  2. Piping around edge of front panel
  3. Piping on sleeve
  4. piping on collar 
  • Blog
  • Blog
  • Complete decorative aspects
  • Take photos of final piece 
  • Complete blog
  • Hand-In 15.00-15.30

Record of weeks time frame


  • Constructed front

  1. darts
  2. hem line
  3. collar and decorative panel shape
  4. back and side with box pleats
  • back underskirt drafted and draped
  • experimented with tape on underskirt to create volume
  • drafted underskirt in pre-shrunk and washed calico
  • re drafted shape of underskirt
  • redrafted shape of box pleats on jacket
  • draped front panel
  • Started to put pattern pieces onto paper 
  • Drafted sleeve
  • Swing-catched pleats and further experimentation with tape
  • marked up calico pieces to create pattern
  • took first toile of mannequin
  • marked out all pattern pieces onto paper and made some adjustments and neatened some lines
  • transferred into paper pattern pieces and cut from pre-shrunk, washed calico
Friday (Not allowed into studio until 13.30)
  • Hemmed all pieces of bodice and skirt
  • Stitched decorative lines on to represent edging
  • Completed box pleats at back of bodice and stitched into place
  • Sewed skirt pieces together, pleated and attached to waistband
  • stitched underskirt into jacket
  • stitched front and back pieces of bodice together
  • piped collar, cuffs, front decorative panels and bagged out
  • covered buttons 
  • put sleeves in
  • inserted front placket to dress
  • pinned in place the front panel and cuffs
  • slip stitched, swing catched and buttons cuff to sleeve
  • slip stitched front panel
  • created and piped belt and bow, and centre front strip decoration (slip stitched on)
  • attached tapes and re-arranged pleats and swing catched in place
  • sew buttons onto front
  • Blog
  • Hand-In 15.00-15.30
Time Frame Evaluation
I was very grateful for the extended date of our hand-in as I was very much needing the time. The National Theatre blouse had set me back in my weekly planning quite a bit and I was seriously debating whether I would be able to complete this last toile to the standard I had set myself in the brief. The piece was still a big challenge to complete in the time frame that I had but I managed to get it done with some courage and perseverance!

When I began the cutting it was helpful  that I had already sourced the undergarments from the costume store, as this allowed me to go straight into the drafting and gave me at least an extra mornings cutting time. Although I indecision on the shape of the darts possibly cost me longer. 

The main time consuming factor was all the decorative features at the end, once the main construction had been done, as lots of hand sewing was involved as well as the piping. As I had specified that my last toile was to be fully complete and neatly finished I could not cut corners and had to make it as presentable as I could despite the limited time. 

There were a lot more elements to finishing this garment than I had previously considered, and only discovered them when I came to the next step in my making. All the details of the design  meant I had to take the mannequin home and spent some very long weekend completing all the elements of the toile until it was at a standard I was happy to hand in. I do not think I would have been able to complete the toile if I had not taken the work home. This has lead me to consider my overall time keeping. If the factors of the extended deadline and ability to take the mannequin had not been there I am not sure whether I would have completed this last toile in the 2 and a half days at uni that we had in the last week before hand-in. I think this was because I fell behind earlier in the project, with everything taking me longer than I anticipated, and this has had a snowball effect to the end of the project. However all things considered I think I have done well to complete this last toile fully having been under a lot of pressure.

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