Toiles Choices

My final decisions on the shapes and time periods of the toiles I would be producing were decided with Dexter with the intention of developing my learning as much as possible and having different challenges from each. Therefore we have chosen 3 very technically different patterns of garments from 1820, 1852, and 1873, meaning I also have a good range across the time period. I will be confronted with very different silhouettes that will require different cutting skills that relate well and quite broadly to the century and will hopefully develop my learning as intensely as possible, having a week each for the half toiles and 2 weeks for the full toile.

1820

This garment should be a nice introduction to the project, relatively simple in its silhouette it must also be very defined. It also has the complication of the intricate tabs and lattice effect across the bodice and top of the sleeves. As a garment from earlier in the century I shall be learning how to create the empire line and see how this works with the undergarments and changing level of the waist.

1852

This garment from the middle of the century has a completely different silhouette and shall prove challenging  in its shape but also with the amount of pleating involved. The pleats in the skirt are tiered in size and must be aligned to sit and look right which will be one of the main challenges as well as the very even pleats of the front of the bodice. There is also the interesting feature of the inner sleeve with a bell shaped cap over the top which could be flat drafted or draped.

1873

This garment from near the end of the century is an interesting mix of styles, somewhat between a polonaise and the princess line. It will be challenging to create the the long fitted shape and to try and create the rouching of the skirt with tapes, techniques which I will not have experienced with the previous toiles. As I am completing this last toile fully, there will also be the added time consuming factor of piping most of the decorative elements which will put pressure on me to work with speed while producing quality work.