Tuesday, 15 March 2011

Research - Costume Store - Undergarments

We looked in the costume store at university to see what range of undergarments there were and which may be of use and would be the right shape for our cutting. We studied the corsets and crinolines and crinolettes. The choice was a little limited in terms of accuracy for each changing silhouette of the period so I have decided to pick the garments based more on their shape and adapt them using layers of petticoats and bum rolls to create the right shape for my toile. It was really interesting to discover properly what the costume store had to offer in terms of undergarments and this morning had definitely expanded my knowledge of how the different structural under garments will work on a mannequin and what will create the right shape and how I can adapt this to fir my needs.
This short crinoline would be a day undergarment and is much like some we saw at the  Hampshire Museum service, and like those could be dated to suit some of the 1850s silhouettes with petticoats over the top.
This crinoline I've judged to be a shape from around the 1860s although I could also use it for an 1850s piece with its wide base. Petticoats would have to be placed over the top to soften the hard edges of the hoops and create the nice soft shape to the top fabric.
I have had to take a guess with this crinoline and suggest the shape may be from the 1870s and worn with a back volume, flounced petticoat. I thought this because it is relatively slim and only tapers a little at the back. I may use this for a later piece as it gives a nice silhouette and could even be a good shape for a princess line dress or something similar if I choose drape one.
This bustle I have dated from research to be of the period around 1880 when the fullness of skirts moves to the back. With the flounces this undergarment would make the dress protrude a lot and would give quite a full bustle. The volume of this could also be adapted by shortening or lengthening the tapes that sit inside.

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